Backstage Beauty FA08: Costello Tagliapietra
Today I had the pleasure of going backstage at Costello Tagliapietra with MAC Cosmetics and Bumble & Bumble. The entire look was absolutely amazing and we felt very privileged to have the opportunity to chat with these fabulous artists.
We were first led backstage to talk briefly with Kubuki, the key makeup artist from MAC Cosmetics, about the inspiration behind the look for the show. Inspired by “a haunted woman in a 19th century portrait,” the look had the look of a witch (think Elsa Lanchester in Bride of Frankenstein) mixed with the “flavor of film noir.” The look was very much 19th century romanticism re-interpreted in a modern Hollywood way. We also spoke with one of their senior makeup artists, Patrick, who walked us through the look and discussed how the look could be re-created at home. For the eye, the look was very soft and pretty. Patrick utilized 7 different shades of taupe, golds, peaches, etc. Approaching application like a painter, Patrick recommends to apply the shadows like “salad, not soup” so the layers and touches of color are visible. The intensity of color should match the skin tone of each individual. (Ex. If you are pale, you may use a soft peach; if you have dark skin, try an orange hue.) Lastly, Patrick applied a touch of MAC Pro Lipstick in Red Pepper (a reddish-brown hue) to the cheeks and lips. The color of the cheeks is blended in a chevron shape to create a natural flush. Use your fingers and dab it on as a stain; Patrick likens the application to pantyhose (provides some coverage, but still sheer enough to see natural color underneath).
After our lovely chat with Patrick, we headed over to ask Jimmy Paul, the key Bumble & Bumble stylist, a few questions about the hair. For the Costello Tagliapietra show, Jimmy Paul went for a bit “grungy” and “witchy” look. The hair was divided into a distinct middle part, with the top/ roots staying very flat. If the model’s natural hair is wavy, it was straightened; if wavy, just a simple blowdry. (If the models had bangs, they also were very flat and straight.) Wanting the ends to be fuller and thicker, Jimmy applied a mix of Bumble & Bumble’s Surf Spray (to give it texture) and Thickening Spray (to make it drier). The result was a very matte finish that looked a little goth, but incredibly gorgeous.
Photos © The Daily Obsession.
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