NY Fashion Week FA08: BCBG Max Azria


BCBG is usually a collection I can rely on for incredibly wearable, if not necessarily innovative looks – particularly dresses. But this year, not a single dress came down the runway that made me even moderately excited. The fashion house seems to be playing around with their classic, works-for-everyone silhouette, but the results lacked polish, and none of the dresses really felt like they fit the models. In fact, the looks I liked best from the collection were the menswear-inspired pieces, which are almost always my least favorite pieces from BCBG. They sent out some fabulous wide-legged trousers and a french-cuffed jacket with beautiful tailoring.

Not a lot of color in the fall collection…the house focused on a very neutral, safari color palette, though they did play with some really gorgeous sapphire blue and saffron yellow silks on a couple of pieces that were fantastic.

Even if I’m not in love with a collection, I like to at least leave a show with some idea of what trends to look toward for the upcoming season. It’s clear there is no “definitive” skirt style for fall ‘08; we saw everything from micro-minis to bubbles to below-the-knee A-line styles. Silhouettes were really varied, though BCBG did do some fabulous things with pleating that are worth taking notice of. And keep your eye out for overcoats without sleeves — I’m skeptical, but willing to keep an open mind.

If Max Azria wants you to take one thing away from his fall ‘08 collection, it’s that he’s had enough of the shapeless silhouettes of seasons past. Belts are back. Literally every look he sent down the runway was belted with an identical leather belt that was tied in a knot in the center. But beyond that, it’s anyone’s guess.

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COMMENTS

I know what you mean — even though I was never “inspired” by BCBG, I thought they made some fabulous dresses for formal dances, etc. I’m not so into the pieces this season, although some are nice individually.

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