New York Fashion Week AW09: Domenico Vacco

Posted by Kathleen

on February 20, 2009

When you are more into the music than you are into the clothes, you know that there was something going on. Miss J of America’s Next Top Model and a few distinguished looking European gentlemen in the front row were all bopping their heads and feeling the Bollywood beats that the DJ used for the show—a little bit of an odd choice for the runway show of a renowned Italian suitmaker but why not. For the record, I had no problem with the men’s clothes at Domenico Vacco—sharply tailored, sophisticated suits that call to mind the time of Gregory Peck in To Kill a Mockingbird, with some beautiful fabric choices and patterns with subtle ginghams and beautiful soft glen plaids.

However, I was a little confused over some of the choices for the women’s designs. First, I had a hard time ascertaining who the Domenico girl or woman is. The show started off with fairly mature designs, with a conservative pinstripe red suit, a nicely cut velvet brown suit that wouldn’t look out of place on a Michael Kors runway, and some ordinary wool coats, of which I have seen cuter designs at Nanette Lepore and Tracy Reese this season.

So far, it was looking okay and I thought I would evaluate the designs as something I could see my mom wearing. But moving on from there, the designs suddenly grew younger and I could no longer envision Mama Joie wearing them. The conservative suit jumped to a series of thigh flashing, sequined minidresses, the likes of which were bedecked with some sparkly, reflective mirror-type buttons or rainbow disco sequins. Either the sequins or these buttons then appeared over the next few designs, looking like a juvenile and arbitrary choice, detracting from the otherwise perfectly flattering shapes and silhouettes and quality materials. One such example of this, was a tulle and silk black strapless full length gown, which would have looked effortly graceful if not for the aforementioned reflective mirror buttons which were dispersed all over the dress, giving the appearance of shiny jelly beans. While not exactly Domenico Vacco’s best, with all that he has achieved in suitwear, I am confident that with some restraint and careful evaluation of his designs, that he can look forward to a better Spring collection.

Do you agree? See more pictures below: