New York Fashion Week AW09: Vivienne Tam
For the Fall 2009 collection inspired by “nothingness,” the bright spot for me in Vivienne Tam’s presentation was her usage of vibrant jewel tones of magenta, candy apple reds and ebullient eggplant – a standout in a mostly drab Fall 2009 season.
With the inspiration of “nothingness,” I would have expected the pieces for the new collection to be in more muted tones to be as close to nothingness as possible, but it was impossible to miss the energetic colors in the store at 40 Mercer, apart from a few pieces in gray or black. Vivienne Tam instead expressed the concept of nothingness by literally incorporating the Chinese character into her pieces: the character appeared in chiffon cutouts, which fluttered delicately on blouses and dresses, screenprinted on silk, and on braided appliqués.
As with most Tam designs, the tailoring was chinoiserie-inspired. Dresses and suits had rounded mandarin like collars, and Vivienne did a charcoal gray version of a modernized cheongsam with the character of nothingness appliquéd in white and black. A floor length black silk dress had the nothingness character extend around the neck, extending effortlessly from an empire waist, looking like wisps of black incense smoke.
A red quilted coat with a dark purple color would normally look like color discord, but the color combination was instead stunning and vivid, and the coat was a lovely interpretation of a classic worn in Shanghai in the ‘50s. See some more pictures of the collection below:









Photos © The Daily Obsession
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