When you find your style spirit animal at an early age, it sticks with you. Ever since discovering Rachel Bilson on The OC, I’ve been following her adorable and spunky on-and-off camera style. With a predilection for vintage, bare legs, and knowledgeably savvy about how to dress her petite hourglass frame, Rachel is a frequent Pinterest source for me when I’m plagued with “I don’t know what to wear” blues. Not any less envy-inducing are Rachel’s smoky, yet natural makeup choices. I was interested about how to get the look, so I interviewed Rachel’s makeup artist on Hart of Dixie, Joni Powell:
The Daily Obsession: Considering Rachel’s eye shape, what were important things to keep in mind when designing the look?
Rachel is lucky and has beautiful large eyes and can wear a variety of eye designs. The one I use most on her is her trademark smoky eye . She can also wear eyeliner smudged inside the waterline of the eye without it making her eyes look too small, which can be a problem if a person has smaller or close-set eyes.
TDO: What type of things about Rachel’s character factored in creating the look?
I consider what the script dictates and adjust her makeup accordingly; are the scenes where she has fallen in the mud? Or where she appears fresh out of the shower? The whole process involves detailed scene by scene planning. Rachel also plays a young doctor from New York City with inherently great style, which makes it easier for me to play up a fun makeup look. Our costume designer Meredith Markworth always dresses Zoe in the most current designer trends so my makeup is often inspired by her chic wardrobe.
TDO: We’ve heard TV makeup is generally thicker/more heavy than most normal people would wear–how can someone pare this down for a normal day/audience?
Makeup used to be much heavier several years ago on television. Now, almost everything is shot in HD so the makeup is more natural, as is the lighting. With HD, EVERYTHING shows, sometimes even an actor’s pores, so as a makeup artist you have to a have a lighter hand and apply sheerer makeup. CARGO has an amazing collection of makeup created specifically for HD, which is called their blu_ray Collection. My favorite is the blu_ray Pressed Powder, which contains photochromatic pigments that adjust with ambient lighting so you look natural in any light setting. They also have an amazing blu_ray HD Mattifier which can be applied under or on top of foundation to control shine during the day and also works to keep pores looking minimized in all lighting.
Get the Look:
First apply the shimmery copper shade of the CARGO Essential Eye Palette labeled “Lid” over the entire eye, using a flat “fluff brush” to work the color from the inside corner outward. Use the nude shade labeled “Brow Bone” underneath the brow as a highlighter to make the eyes pop. Next apply the darkest shade labeled “Outer Corner” with an angled brush as a liner to create a thick line above the lashes that extends to the outer corner and below the lower lashes to meet the top line, creating a triangle at the outer corners. Then use a rounded brush to smudge the liner and drag out the corners for an enhanced look, followed by a few coats of CARGO’s TexasLash Mascara to add drama.